In 1973, Jil Sander decided to create her own fashion house. A year later, she presented her first collection, bringing to the fashion world her concept of formal elegance, designed for women who were finally taking on professional roles previously reserved for men. From the very first creations, the elements that would become the brand’s hallmarks were evident: clean lines, soft colors and a minimalist aesthetic approach.
Today, everyone knows Jil Sander as a brand synonymous with minimalist aesthetics, a guarantee for anyone looking for a fashion style that represents a timeless, pure elegance without excessive embellishment. This is thanks to its founder, Heidemarie Jiline “Jil” Sander, who has been called the “Queen of Minimalism” by critics and colleagues. However, the German designer, in her youth, dreamed of working in the media world and for a short period of time managed to realize this desire.
A STEP BACK IN TIME
Born in 1943 in Wesselburen, Germany, Jil Sander studied design at the State School of Textile Engineering in Krefeld and then moved to the United States, where she attended the University of California. After graduating in Los Angeles, she went to New York, where she worked as a fashion journalist for the American magazine McCalls, fulfilling her dream at the time. At the age of 21, after the sudden death of her father, she returned to Germany, to Hamburg. There she began working for several German magazines and, three years later, in 1968, decided to open her first boutique, where she began creating clothes with her mother’s sewing machine.
THE FOUNDING OF THE JIL SANDER BRAND
In 1973, Jil Sander decided to create her own fashion house. A year later, she presented her first collection, bringing to the fashion world her concept of formal elegance, designed for women who were finally taking on professional roles previously reserved for men. From the very first creations, the elements that would become the brand’s hallmarks were evident: clean lines, soft colors, and a minimalist aesthetic approach.
Her minimalism was not just a style, but a true philosophy of life, reflected in functional design and a rigorous selection. Her expertly tailored suits, combined with classic white shirts, made her known as the “königin des weglassens”, a German expression that translates as “queen of getting rid of excess”. Jil Sander, in this way, anticipated a trend that would become very popular years later. Her success led her first to create a cosmetics line and then, in 1997, a men’s line, which followed the same philosophy as that of women’s style.
JIL SANDER’S ARRIVAL IN ITALY
In 1994, Jil Sander arrived in Italy. In Milan, the brand opened its first showroom, which soon became the company’s headquarters. In 1999, the Prada Group bought 75% of the company’s shares. Just six months later, Jil Sander left the management and was replaced by designer Milan Vukmirovic. This was a turbulent period for the brand, with many changes. In 2003, Jil Sander returned as a designer and as part of the Prada board of directors, but a year later, due to disagreements with the company, she left again.
However, the brand remained strong and enduring. In 2005, Raf Simons was appointed creative director for the men’s and women’s lines. Over time, he adapted his vision to the aesthetic codes of the Jil Sander brand. This was particularly reflected in the autumn-winter 2007-2008 collection, which was met with critical acclaim. Vogue Runway wrote that the Belgian designer was “leading the brand towards a calm conceptualism”. Simons left the brand in 2012, with a collection that was considered by the press to be the best ever created for Jil Sander.
Meanwhile, in 2006, the brand was sold by the Prada Group to the Chande Capital Partners fund, and in 2008 it was acquired by Onward Holdings, a Japanese company. After Simons left, Jil Sander returned to lead the brand for about a year. In 2014, Rodolfo Paglialunga was appointed creative director and remained in this position for three years. In 2017, the brand was acquired by the OTB Group and the creative direction was taken by Lucie and Luke Meier, who are still at the helm.
CONTINUING THE MINIMUM VISION
The Meier couple have continued, like their predecessors, to develop a vision of elegant and carefully considered fashion. In an interview with Vogue in 2017, they emphasized that they wanted to express emotions through fashion: “This is something that Jil Sander herself, as a woman, has expressed in her own way. There was a lot of emotion in creating a brand like hers, and for us that is something special (…). We feel a deep connection to the values of the brand and to Jil’s work, it is not just a job. I have always seen Jil Sander as a very feminine brand, although it has a very masculine side. I refer to its sensuality, softness and a sensitive approach; it is exactly what the world needs at the moment, I think.”
Over these eight years, Lucie and Luke Meier have always remained faithful to the brand’s original vision and approach, while simultaneously bringing constant innovation within this fashion house. (Living.al)
